Thông tin sản phẩm

Grosgrain-Wikipedia

Grosgrain

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Jump to navigation

Jump to search

Plain-woven fabric with weft-wise ribbing, often woven in ribbon widths

A close-up of a piece of grosgrain ribbon. Note the ribs that go across the ribbon.

Grosgrain ribbons in various colors and widths

Grosgrain (

/ˈɡrɡrn/

,

GROH-grayn

, also sometimes pronounced

/ˈɡrɒsɡrn/

,

GRAHS-grayn

), is a type of fabric or ribbon defined by the fact that its

weft

is heavier than its

warp

, creating prominent transverse ribs. It is called a “corded” fabric since the weft resembles a fine cord. Grosgrain is a

plain weave

corded fabric, with heavier cords than in

poplin

but lighter than in faille.

[1]

[2]

Grosgrain has a very dull appearance with little luster but is very strong.

[3]

It is a firm, close-woven, fine-corded fabric.

[4]

Grosgrain fabric is most commonly available in black, but grosgrain

ribbon

comes in a large variety of colors and patterns. The ribbon is very similar to

Petersham ribbon

in its appearance, but it does not have the ability to follow the curves of a surface or edge the way that the latter does.

“Grosgrain” is commonly used to refer to a heavy, stiff ribbon of

silk

or

nylon

[5]

woven via

taffeta weave

using a heavy weft which results in distinct transverse ribs. Historically grosgrain was made from

wool

, silk, or a combination of fibers such as silk and wool or silk and

mohair

.

[1]

When a combination of fibers was used, the end result was sometimes given the name grogram, silk mohair, gros de Tours or gros de Napels.

[1]

[6]

[7]

Etymology[

edit

]

Grosgrain is both a direct French

loan word

and a folk corruption of the French word grogram.

[8]

Grogram, originally gros gram (appeared in literature in 1562), is defined as a coarse, loosely woven fabric of

silk

, silk and

mohair

, or silk and

wool

.

[9]

The adjective gros means thick or coarse, originally from the Old French gros, itself derived from the

Latin

grossus.

[10]

Grain

” is derived from Old French graine, itself derived from the Latin grana (plural of granum) – seed or in some contexts

texture

.

[4]

[11]

Thus gros gram, grogram and grosgrain are all one and the same: a large grain hence coarse texture, thence a coarse-textured fabric.

[10]

[12]

The term ‘Grog’, meaning alcohol, comes from the nickname ‘Old Grog’, given to

Admiral Vernon

(1684–1757) because of the grogram cloak he wore.

[13]

Moire[

edit

]

Moire

is a waved or watered effect produced especially on grosgrain silk and woolen moreen via engraved rollers and high pressure on carded material. The end result is a peculiar luster which works best when made from a corded fabric like grosgrain.

[14]

During the

Middle Ages

, moire was held in high esteem and was, as currently, used for women’s dresses, for capes, and for facings, trimmings, etc.

[15]

Use in clothing[

edit

]

Bạn đang xem: Grosgrain-Wikipedia

History[

edit

]

Throughout the 17th century, grosgrain

fabric

was used as the fabric

body

(corpus) for many garments, including waistcoats, jackets, petticoats, beeches, sleeves, jerkins and many other items of clothing, as a cheaper alternative for the lower socio-economic demographic than fine-woven silk or wool.

[16]

In the 1740s Admiral

Edward Vernon

, who was known as “Old Grog” because he preferred a grosgam cloak to a more expensive variety, introduced the

Rum ration

in the British

Royal Navy

. It’s from his attire that the naval term

grog

is derived.

[17]

[18]

[19]

Factories in America started to produce grosgrain silk in the late 19th century.

[20]

[21]

Throughout the 1920s the term seems to have remained true to original definition as a garment fabric.

[22]

However, circa 1920s it fell out of favor as a garment fabric and was defined identically to contemporary terminology as a grosgrain

ribbon

. While grosgrain fabric is almost always black, grosgrain ribbon comes in a large variety of colors and printed patterns.

The most common contemporary use of ribbed grosgrain is in

hems

where it may be elasticized or not, especially of

polo shirts

,

T-shirts

and

underwear

.

Grosgrain that does have some luster is a very popular fabric especially for ribbons, which are used to ornament and decorate clothing. As grosgrain has less luster than burnished

silk

or

satin

it is very popular with and common in evening wear because it is seen as less “

flashy

“, though silk and satin (which is a different weave, as opposed to a fiber such as silk) can commonly be found on day wear. Although grosgrain may actually be made of silk, it is often erroneously referred to as a separate fabric.

Structural uses[

edit

]

Lustrous grosgrain is used extensively to join female semi-detached clothing articles such as bodices to skirts and similar, where this necessary joint may be visible.

[23]

Ribbed grosgrain may be used similarly to

twill tape

for internal

gussets

and reinforcements. Grosgrain ribbon is often used for facings and for waistbands.

[24]

[25]

Using a grosgrain ribbon facing for waistbands is faster and uses less fabric. It is also works especially well with bulky fabrics.

[25]

McCall’s Sewing Book states: “grosgrain ribbon is used with any heavy fabric to reduce bulk” though it may be the word “bulk” is used in the sense of outward appearance, rather than actual

mass

. McCall elaborates: “grosgrain is used to finish the back of novelty braid or to face the back of any fabric belt.”

[24]

[25]

[26]

Xem thêm: Tại sao quần áo Uniqlo Nhật lại made in China, made in Vietnam?-Shop Mẹ Bi

Evening wear[

edit

]

As a more subtle option to

lustrous

satin

, grosgrain is very popular with evening wear, used on the

facings

of lapels of most

dress coats

and high-end

dinner jackets

and

tuxedos

. Grosgrain is traditionally used to

hem

and highlight the

cut

of

lapel

,

collar

and visible outermost edges of the formal

frock coat

and the later

morning coat

.

[27]

Hemmed frock-coats, as described, may be seen in the film

Gone with the Wind

noted for its historically accurate costume.

[28]

Grosgrain is preferred over satin for practicality—it does not wear as easily as delicate silk or satin, as the threads do not snag as easily (on a ring or

keys

, for instance).

[29]

Grosgrain is also used for matching accessories such as

bow ties

[29]

and

cummerbunds

, though these are often in

barathea

to complement the main suiting while still avoiding the glare of satin, increasingly gaining a ‘flashy’ image.

Millinery[

edit

]

Grosgrain is also used in

millinery

. Grosgrain ribbons are popular creating ribbon decorations for

hats

(made into flowers, for example), however grosgrain is most notably used in

top hats

and

opera hats

, or as the trimming band on the

Homburg

.

[30]

Other uses[

edit

]

Book-binding[

edit

]

Grosgrain fabric and ribbon are common structural fabrics for the joining or reinforcement of

spines

or

sheaves

in fine commercial and hobby book-binding and book restoration.

[31]

Xem thêm: Bông Tai Nam Châm Full Hình

Cargo and packing use[

edit

]

A particular characteristic of grosgrain ribbon is that the thicker weft resists longitudinal curling and so it exerts an even pressure when tied around crushable materials.

Nylon

grosgrain is often used as heavy-duty

webbing

or binding around luggage, packs,

messenger bags

and other heavy use “soft” goods. It is also used for securing

cargo

. It can be dyed and is available in a variety of colours (though again usually black).

Early seat belts and military webbing of every sort during

World War II

were made of grosgrain

hemp

,

jute

and

linen

.

Craft[

edit

]

Grosgrain made out of cotton or low-cost

synthetic

such as

polyester

is very common for gift-wrap ribbons, or for decorating and ornamenting scrapbooks and greeting cards. It can be used for many different crafts as well, from bead making,

[5]

to book-binding,

[31]

to trimming or embellishing,

[32]

as well as a multitude of other uses. Grosgrain ribbon is the primary ribbon material used in the hair bow industry.

Xem thêm: TLK Favorites: Panasonic Lumix GM1 Camera Review-The Little Kitchen

Lanyards[

edit

]

Grosgrain out of cotton or low-cost synthetic such as

polyester

is very popular for use as a

lanyard

, and is often printed on by large corporate companies to use as a marketing or branding tool to promote their companies.

Percussion[

edit

]

Polyester

grosgrain in a 5/8-inch width can be used as the tensioning material attaching the snares of a snare drum to the throw-off mechanism, with the ribbing providing good insurance against slippage. Some like to use it in an attempt to lessen sympathetic snare buzz from external sources as it will hold the tab ends of the snares closer to the head than string and it will provide more dampening than mylar straps.

Hat ribbons and binding[

edit

]

Grosgrain ribbon is the preferred choice for quality men’s hats. The ribbon is traditionally a cotton and rayon blend and has a woven or finished edge. The similar petersham ribbon with its scalloped edge is generally not used for men’s hats; however, there have been exceptions such as the Stetson Flagship fedora that used petersham. Most custom men’s hatters, as well as the better mass market makers of men’s hats, use grosgrain ribbon exclusively. The grosgrain is used for the crown ribbon/bow and the binding around the edge of the brim on hats that have bound edges.

The hat making industry has struggled to find modern ribbon that is as well-suited for hat making as vintage rayon-cotton blend ribbon. Modern polyester ribbon cannot match the finish or the muted colors available in vintage ribbon. Hatters have tried silk and other options, but almost always with a finished edge rather than petersham. Vintage stocks of grosgrain ribbon suitable for hat making are in continually diminishing supply and the price has seen a corresponding increase.

References[

edit

]

  1. ^

    a

    b

    c

    Montgomery, Florence M.; Linda Eaton (2007).

    Textiles in America, 1650-1870

    . W. W. Norton & Company. p. 252.

    ISBN

     

    978-0-393-73224-5

    . Retrieved July 10, 2009.

  2. ^

    Kate Heinz Watson, Textiles and Clothing American School of Home Economics, Chicago: 1907: pp 91

    [1]

  3. ^

    Banner, Bertha (1898).

    Household Sewing with Home Dressmaking

    . Longmans, Green, and co. p. 

    106

    . Retrieved July 10, 2009.

  4. ^

    a

    b

    Thompson, Eliza Bailey (1922).

    Silk

    . The Ronald press company. pp. 

    134

    –135. Retrieved July 10, 2009.

  5. ^

    a

    b

    Lockwood, Georgene (1998).

    The Complete Idiot’s Guide to Crafts With Kids

    . Alpha Books. p. 

    86

    .

    ISBN

     

    0-02-862406-8

    . Retrieved July 10, 2009.

  6. ^

    Cole, George S. (1892).

    A Complete Dictionary of Dry Goods and History of Silk, Cotton, Linen, Wool

    . W.B. Conkey Co. p. 

    171

    . Retrieved July 10, 2009.

  7. ^

    Cheney Brothers, James Chittick, Emanuel Anthony Posselt, Berlitz Schools of Languages, A glossary of silk terms, including a short history of silk: its origin, culture and manufacture Cheney Brothers: 1915

  8. ^

    Joseph Shipley, Origins of English Words, JHU Press: 2001

    ISBN

     

    0-8018-6784-3

    , 671 pages: pp 121

  9. ^

    Merriam-Webster’s collegiate dictionary, Merriam-Webster Inc: pp 551

  10. ^

    a

    b

    Ernest Weekley, An Etymological Dictionary of Modern English, Courier Dover Publications: 1967,

    ISBN

     

    0-486-21873-2

    : pp 668

  11. ^

    “Grosgrain”. The Oxford English Dictionary. 2nd ed. 1989.

  12. ^

    Charles Talbut Onions, George Washington Salisbury Friedrichsen, R. W. Burchfield, The Oxford dictionary of English etymology, Clarendon P.: 1966: 1025 pages

  13. ^

    Oxford thesaurus of English

    . Waite, Maurice. (3rd ed.). Oxford: Oxford University Press. 2009.

    ISBN

     

    978-0-19-956081-3

    .

    OCLC

     

    321014234

    .CS1 maint: others (

    link

    )

  14. ^

    Textile World Record

    . Lord & Nagle Co. 1907. p. 118. Retrieved July 8, 2009.

  15. ^

    William Dooley, Textiles for Commercial, Industrial and Domestic Arts Schools, D. C. Heath & Company: 1910: pp. 223

    [2]

  16. ^

    de Winkel, Marieke (2006).

    Fashion and fancy

    . Amsterdam University Press.

    ISBN

     

    90-5356-917-0

    . Retrieved July 10, 2009.

  17. ^

    Macdonald, J (2004). Feeding Nelson’s Navy. Chatham Publishing.

  18. ^

    Navy Victually Board Regulations and Instructions 14th editio. 1806.

  19. ^

    Rodger, N (1986). The Wooden World: An Anatomy of the Georgian Navy. William Collins.

  20. ^

    Field, Jacqueline;

    Marjorie Senechal

    ; Madelyn Shaw (2007).

    American silk, 1830-1930

    . Texas Tech University Press. p. 133.

    ISBN

     

    978-0-89672-589-8

    . Retrieved July 10, 2009.

  21. ^

    Zelma Bendure, Gladys Bendure Pfeiffer, America’s fabrics: origin and history, manufacture, characteristics and uses, The Macmilln Company: 1946, 688 pages

  22. ^

    Ellen Beers McGowan, Charlotte Augusta Waite, A.. Textiles and clothing, Macmillan: 1919: 268 pages

  23. ^

    McCall’s Sewing Book, Random House: 1968: 198, 224

  24. ^

    a

    b

    Shaeffer, Claire B. (2001).

    Couture sewing techniques

    . Taunton Press.

    ISBN

     

    1-56158-497-5

    . Retrieved July 10, 2009.

  25. ^

    a

    b

    c

    Deckert, Barbara (2002).

    Sewing for plus sizes

    . Taunton Press. p. 100.

    ISBN

     

    1-56158-551-3

    . Retrieved July 10, 2009.

  26. ^

    McCall’s Sewing Book, Random House: 1968, 308 pages: pp 226

  27. ^

    Natalie Rothstein

    , Victoria and Albert Museum, Madeleine Ginsburg, Victoria and Albert Museum. Dept. of Textiles and Dress, Avril Hart, Philip Barnard, Valerie D. Mendes, Four hundred years of fashion: The Victoria and Albert Museum: Department of Textiles and Dress, Edition 2, Victoria and Albert Museum: 1992,

    ISBN

     

    1-85177-116-6

    , 176 pages, pp 174

  28. ^

    Cynthia Marylee Molt, Gone with the Wind on film: a complete reference, McFarland & Co: 1990

    ISBN

     

    0899504396

    , 512 pages, pp. 150: “Jonas Wilkinson coat- dark-grey broadcloth. worn. Frock Coat. Double breasted, hemmed in black grosgrain”

  29. ^

    a

    b

    Esquire The Handbook of Style

    . Sterling Publishing Company. 2009. p. 34.

    ISBN

     

    978-1-58816-746-0

    . Retrieved July 10, 2009.

  30. ^

    Zelma Bendure, Gladys Bendure Pfeiffer, America’s fabrics: origin and history, manufacture, characteristics and uses, The Macmillan Company: 1946, 688 pages.

  31. ^

    a

    b

    Young, Laura S.; Sidonie Coryn; John Hurt Whitehead; Jerilyn Glenn Davis (1995).

    Bookbinding & conservation by hand

    . Oak Knoll Press. p. 224.

    ISBN

     

    1-884718-11-6

    . Retrieved July 10, 2009.

  32. ^

    Lee, Linda (2001).

    Sewing stylish home projects

    . Taunton Press.

    ISBN

     

    1-56158-337-5

    . Retrieved July 10, 2009.

Retrieved from “

https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Grosgrain&oldid=1030065707

Chuyên mục: Thông tin sản phẩm

Related Articles

Trả lời

Email của bạn sẽ không được hiển thị công khai. Các trường bắt buộc được đánh dấu *

Back to top button